We’re always on the hunt for the latest skincare ingredients to boost our routines and unlock a radiant complexion. It may be lesser-known compared to the likes of lactic acid and azelaic acid, but the benefits of alpha arbutin are not to be dismissed.
If you struggle with dullness, hyperpigmentation and uneven skin texture, this might be the ingredient your routine has been missing. To understand exactly what alpha arbutin is and how it works we chatted to Dr. Aiza Jamil, Dermatologist at SK
What is alpha arbutin?
“Alpha arbutin is a naturally occurring compound that is often used in skincare products for its potential skin-brightening and pigmentation-reducing properties," explains Dr Jamil.
"It is a type of hydroquinone derivative and is derived from the bearberry plant. It works by inhibiting the production of melanin which helps to reduce the appearance of pigmented spots and hyperpigmentation. It is a popular ingredient used in skin care products and generally safe for all skin types including sensitive skin.”
What are the benefits of alpha arbutin?
If you are contemplating adding alpha arbutin into your skincare routine, its benefits might help you decide whether it is the right ingredient for you. Luckily, Dr. Jamil has broken it down for us into 5 key benefits:
How to use alpha arbutin
You might be wondering, how do I actually use alpha arbutin? The most popular way to add the ingredient into your routine is in the form of a face serum.
"Alpha arbutin products can be used in the morning and evening. As it is water based, it should be applied directly to clean, dry skin before any moisturisers are applied. Simply massage or gently tap into the skin till it is absorbed," advises Dr. Jamil.
Are there any possible side effects of alpha arbutin?
Like many other powerful and effective skincare products, such as retinol serums, side effects can occur when using an alpha arbutin product. It is always best to proceed with caution when trying a new product and only ever use one new skincare product at a time, so it is easy to distinguish which ingredient has caused a reaction if one were to occur.
Dr. Jamil chats us through the side effects of alpha arbutin which can occasionally occur:
Is alpha arbutin safe for sensitive skin?
"Sensitive skin may vary from person to person, so it is very variable how an individual reacts to a product," explains Dr. Jamil. "Alpha arbutin may cause skin irritation and reaction so the following measures can be taken to minimise the side effects and potential risks."
Follow the dermatologist-approved advice from Dr. Jamil below, on how to avoid a reaction to alpha arbutin and instead ensure you are unlocking its benefits.
Alpha arbutin vs. other dark spot-fading ingredients
Besides from the very well-known radiance-boosting Vitamin C serum, the other key skin-brightening ingredient that has similarities to the benefits alpha arbutin is kojic acid.
"Like alpha arbutin, kojic acid is also a naturally occurring product derived from certain fungi and has melanin-reducing abilities," explains Dr Jamil. "It can be combined with alpha arbutin to enhance the effect of skin lightening and reduce pigmented marks and spots and uneven skin tone. They have been used in combination in certain skin care products for enhanced effect but caution should always be taken to avoid any adverse reaction to the skin."
SHOP: The best alpha arbutin serums
Best budget alpha arbutin serum
www.beautybay.com
This lightweight and fast-absorbing serum from skincare heroes The Ordinary combines alpha arbutin with hyaluronic acid to deliver a double whammy of brightening and hydrating results. Apply a few drops to freshly cleansed skin before your moisturiser to target dark spots and uneven skin tone.
Customer reviews: "Highly recommend to assist fading sun spots. At first, I was unsure as I did not see results immediately, but as with most things, persistence was the key."
"Alpha arbutin saved my skin, I have dry skin the HA in here really helped my skin and for penetration of the product too. It's great for hyper pigmentation and acne marks especially for those prone to acne. I keep repurchasing this to fade any acne mark I get."
Pros
- Also great for helping dryness
- Alcohol-free and silicon-free
- Vegan and cruelty-free
Cons
- The texture is a little sticky
- Can cause reactions for sensitive skin types
Best alpha arbutin serum for sensitive skin
www.lookfantastic.com
We love The Inkey List for effective products at affordable prices, and their alpha arbutin serum is of no exception. Powered by a concentration of 2% alpha arbutin, it helps to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and dark spots. Thanks to both hyaluronic acid and squalane, the serum also keeps your complexion feeling supple and moisturised.
Customer reviews: "I love this serum and prefer it over all others. It calms my skin and is a great base layer. No irritation at all. It is very liquidy but this makes it seep in effortlessly."
"Having previously used a different brand of alpha arbutin and finding it effective but pilled really badly I decided to try The Inkey List. It's a great product super effective on my post-acne hyper pigmentation and also helps with my hereditary dark circles. Don't be put off by the colour it is meant to be a browny colour and is pretty watery but it spreads lovely and I personally love the texture. I also have dry sensitive skin and this doesn't dry me out or react with my skin."
Pros
- Non-irritating and great sensitive skin
- Addition of hyaluronic acid and squalane helps with hydration and smoothness
- Vegan and cruelty-free
Cons
- Texture is a little watery, making application a little messier
Best alpha arbutin serum for a lovely texture
www.spacenk.com
Newly-launched in the UK, a skincare brand to have your radar is Naturium. They are committed to only using ingredients that directly benefit the skin’s health so that you won't find any parabens or synthetic fragrance. A brightening powerhouse, their alpha arbutin serum also uses niacinamide and lemon to minimise the appearance of dark spots and unlock a radiant complexion. Less sticky than other formulations, it's also a joy to apply and feels lovely on your skin.
Customer reviews: "My skin absolutely loves this stuff! It's worked wonders for my post-acne marks and now I need it in my routine. I was initially reluctant to try something with niacinamide in it because it hasn't worked well for me in the past. However, this product is gentle enough not to irritate my skin."
"So I’ve tried alpha arbutin serums before and one of my main issues has always been the consistency as well as how it blends into the skin and reacts to other products. Not only has this serum made my complexion appear less dull, it applies so wonderfully onto the skin. The formulation is fantastic and I’m usually not fussed about formulations as long as the product works, but this serum has made me not want to use others and exclusively use this brand. The serum doesn’t foam up when you try to rub it into your skin and doesn’t crystallise on the pump which are issues I’ve had with other serums. I highly recommend this product."
Pros
- Also uses popular skincare ingredient niacinamide for extra effectiveness
- Pump bottle makes for easier application
- Vegan and cruelty-free
Cons
- Higher price point