Azelaic acid tends to be underrated but its anti-inflammatory properties not only help battle acne but gently attacks bacteria, clears pigmentation and soothes rosacea. Skincare expert and Education Manager at Paula’s Choice, Heather Wish has given her guide and tips on how to use the multipurpose acid.
What is Azelaic Acid?
Praised by dermatologists for over 30 years, Azelaic Acid is an antibacterial antioxidant that aids various skin conditions such as acne, hyperpigmentation, and rosacea. In the form of gel, foam and cream, the acid can be bought over the counter in 10% concentration or prescribed in strengths of 15-25%. It’s a lot milder than other acids such as salicylic acid, making it the perfect option for sensitive skin. Although the acid is made from grains such as barley, rye and wheat, it is 100% gluten-free, so GF-free girls, this one is for you!
How to use Azelaic acid
Heather Wish advises to ‘Simply apply a product containing azelaic acid, such as Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster,£40, as part of your daily skincare routine. The general rule when it comes to applying skin care products is to apply the most fluid, watery products first and the creamy thicker products next.’
When using azelaic acid it is very important to include an SPF to your skincare regime, minimum SPF 30 as the acid can cause your skin to become more sensitive to UV rays and without SPF you are more prone to sun damage.
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A multi tasking acid, ideal for combination skin works to visibly fade brown spots caused by sun damage, reduces redness and breakouts, leaving you with an even, more radiant complexion.
Benefits of Azelaic acid:
Skin expert Heather Wish says ‘’azelaic acid is an interesting ingredient because of its mix of anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antioxidant, melanin-inhibiting, and mild exfoliation abilities. That’s a powerful combination for skin with clogged pores, acne, redness, dark spots, and sensitivity!’’
The main benefits are:
Acne: the acid clears your pores of bacteria that could lead to further breakouts and encourages the skin to heal quicker.
Hyperpigmentation: the azelaic acid gently exfoliates the skin and turns over new skin cells so the skin heals quicker. You could expect to see improvement in as little as six weeks.
Anti-inflammatory: by reducing the inflammation on your skin with the acid, the acne will become less visible and less irritated.
Rosacea: Azelaic Acid in gel form is an effective treatment for rosacea and can improve swelling and visibility of the blood vessels caused by rosacea.
When to use Azelaic acid?
Azelaic Acid’s primary use is for people suffering from acne, inflammation or rosacea. It can be used every day, but expert Heather Wish suggests ‘’if you’re already using a lot of other ‘actives’ in your routine, introduce it slowly (just 3 times the first week). You may need to alternate it with other powerful products in your routine like vitamin C or retinol (use one in the morning and the other at night or on alternate days). Experiment to see what works best for your skin.’’
Who should or shouldn’t use Azelaic Acid?
As it’s a mild acid it can be used on any skin type but works more effectively on ‘’those with blemish prone skin as azelaic acid is quite soothing’’ says Heather Wish.
Expert Heather Wish tells us what ingredients work well with Azelaic Acid:
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A fast-absorbing serum made to reduce the appearance of pigmentation and redness. Leaves skin feeling soft and conditioned.
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The lightweight cream-gel targets dull and pigmented skin. Inclusive of an effective antibacterial ingredient that gently exfoliates the skin to prevent clogged pores and blemishes.