A guide to using face serums, depending on your skin type

A guide to using serums

by Emma White |
Published on

You’ve most likely already heard of face serums, maybe you’re already using them in your skincare routine, but do you know exactly what a face serum is and why they are so beneficial for our skin?

We’ve all been guilty of slapping on a serum after face cleansing, following with our moisturiser and hoping for the best. But what actually do they do?

To get straight to the answers we’ve all been looking for, we’ve called in reinforcements from the experts get the lowdown on everything there is to know about face serums. Dr Sonia, Olay’s Clinical Dermatology expert and David Delport, REN Clean Skincare Global Ambassador and product expert, reveal all on how face serums work, how to apply them and how to incorporate them into your routine.

What is a face serum?

A face serum is a mega-powerful product. Think of them as super serums. Adding them into your routine is a no-brainer for effectively treating skin concerns and seeing visible results in record time.

"Serums are typically lightweight, fast-absorbing formulations that are designed to deliver a high concentration of active ingredients deeper into the skin" explains David Delport from REN Skincare. "They often contain antioxidants, peptides, retinols, and other specialized ingredients that target specific skin concerns, such as wrinkles, fine lines, uneven skin tone and inflammation."

The benefits of using a face serum

Now that we've established exactly what a face serum is, let's delve deeper into their benefits. Of which, if you hadn't gathered already, there are a lot.

David Delport from REN Skincare explains that, "serums often showcase the best and latest technology a brand has, which is why they tend to sit at a higher price point, but also deliver results faster! They are designed to deliver a high concentration of active ingredients to target specific skin concerns vs moisturisers which are more generally designed to sit within the upper layer of the skin to form a protective shield for the skin barrier."

"Serums are a good addition to any skincare routine. They can be suited to all/several skin types," explains Dr Sonia from Olay. "Serums can have the power to target specific skin concerns and can be packed with powerful/potent ingredients in varying percentages. Serums act as targeted treatment for wrinkles, pigmentation, redness, dullness, etc."

When to use a face serum

So when during our routine should we be using serums?

A face serum should be applied after cleansing and exfoliation but before your moisturiser.

"Serums can be stand-alone products or layered underneath heavier textured products like oils and moisturisers," says David Delport from REN Skincare.

"If you’re feeling overwhelmed by when and what to use, always remember that serums go on cleansed skin before oils and creams, and generally, it’s good practice to focus your calming, hydrating, antioxidant serums in the morning, while leaving your exfoliating and regenerating (think retinols) serums for the evening. This follows the natural function of the skin and delivers the best results, best protection, and the least opportunity for sensitivity to arise."

Dr Sonia from Olay reminds us to "be mindful that you don’t start mixing serums at home as it can lead to unwanted effects/irritation when mixing different ingredients."

How to apply a face serum

Face serums are applied very differently to your moisturiser. (Something not very many people normally know!) Massaging or rubbing them into your skin is not the way to go. We chatted to David Delport from REN Skincare to understand exactly why this is.

"Because serums are concentrated, I find the best application is the opposite to what you see on social media. They are not designed to be pumped directly onto the face in massive quantities, but rather treated like something precious."

"I like to take 1-2 pumps in the palm of my hand, press my hands together to get the product spread evenly across both palms and then press across the entire face and neck. This gives the best coverage and the best economy around product usage. Remember – serums are concentrated.  It’s not about volume, but rather mindful application!"

Choosing the best serum for your skin type

With hundreds of different serums on the market, it can be rather overwhelming to choose which one is best for your complexion. As serums are designed to target specific skin concerns, pick your formula based on what you would like to achieve. Whether that be improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, replenishing dry skin, brightening pigmentation or perhaps tackling congestion and blemishes. Dr Sonia from Olay chats us through most common concerns and how to tackle them.

Mature Skin

“Mature skin/‘Anti-aging’ serums: These often contain retinoids, tea polyphenols, niacinamide, collagen peptides, and epidermal growth factors. They are beneficial for all skin types.”

Dull Skin

“Dullness/‘Anti-aging’ (these also fight against free radical damage): These help to protect your skin from the free radicals you're exposed to on a daily basis. They’re useful in preventing fine lines and other visible signs of ageing and can heal and repair skin. For example – Vitamin C is used for brightness and also helps protect against free radical damage. We are exposed to free radicals on a regular basis, antioxidant serums are ideal for all skin types and often contain Vitamin C, Vitamin E, resveratrol, pycnogenol, niacinamide, melatonin.”

Dry Skin

“Dry skin: Those with dry skin are ideal candidates for a hydrating serum but all skin types benefit with these as oily skin types need hydration too. Both mature and young skin alike can use a hydrating serum - no age is too young for hydration serums, and they can be a great oil-free option for breakout prone skin. Ingredients: Hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, peptides, ceramides.”

Skin with pigmentation

“Pigmentation: These can contain phytic acid, Vitamin C, arbutin, kojic acid, azelaic acid, and AHA’s – they can help brighten skin but also aid in pigment suppression. Suited to all skin types that suffer from these issues, but I would be mindful about not overusing/over-exfoliating.”

Oily and acne-prone skin

“Acne-prone/oily skin: These may contain BHA’s like salicylic acid and are particularly suited to oily/combination, congested or acne prone skin.”

Key ingredients to look out for

Hyaluronic acid

A hydration hero, hyaluronic acid is a very popular ingredient in serums. It helps to plump up and moisturise dry or dehydrated skin.

Vitamin C

A potent antioxidant, Vitamin C can help to brighten and even out skin tone, while also protecting against environmental stressors like pollution and UV rays

Niacinamide

This multi-tasking ingredient can help to reduce inflammation, improve skin texture, and minimise the appearance of pores.

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)

These gentle exfoliating acids can help to brighten and even out skin tone, while also improving the texture and smoothness of the skin.

Retinol

Also known as retinoid or Vitamin A, this is the ingredient you need in your arsenal for unbeatable anti-ageing abilities. Not only does it reverse signs of ageing, it has also been proven to prevent them.

Things to remember

Serums = super skin saviours. If you are looking to treat specific skin concerns, serums are your go-to.

Since serums contain a high concentration of active ingredients they tend to sit at a higher price point. If you're going to invest in any skincare product in your routine, a serum is a great place to do so. The results-driven product is worth the extra pennies if you have them to spare.

The active ingredient you want will depend on the concern you are looking to treat. When purchasing a serum, check the label to see what ingredients the product contains so you can get the best formula for your skin.

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